BLACK SILK DOUBLE GEORGETTE DRESS

The last rushed order was finally done on Thursday. I was glad it was gone and be able to take some time. It really had been an interesting month. Thank goodness, I have a few days, to get my energy back, get things organized and be ready for the next rush. I tell you I can’t wait to get back to the beaded wedding dress. It surly is relaxing doing all that beading!

The Cocktail dress with stole was made out of Silk Double Georgette and Silk Chiffon. I used the double georgette for the skirt and stole. The Chiffon was use for the ruching on the upper port of the dress.

Hopefully, next week I will continue with the beading, unless something else comes along.

BALANCING ACT II [BLACK EVENING DRESS]

The dress is done and waiting to be pick up. I wish it would fit one of the mannequins, and take pics.

The bodice is made of Alencon lace lined with silk gazar, Rex Fabrics . It was underlined and fused interlined at the armholes, as well as padding to compensate for the difference from side to side. Shoulder pads were use as well. On the left side there is a 1” thick shoulder pad, and the right side a ½” thick.

Shoulder line, upper hip seam as well as some of the tiers, when hand on a hanger, would look slanted, the left side appearing shorter than the right side. I mention earlier, when she has the dress on, it all looks even.
The skirt is made out 8 tiers cut on the bias and lined with silk organza, also on the bias. The tiers are sewn to a foundation made out of Taffeta.

Sewing the tiers was a real challenge, each tier should be 4 ½” long [ the part that actually is seen]. The skirt being an inch shorter on the left side, I had to play around with the upper tiers to get the optical illusion of being equal on both sides. This took me some time.

When making a skirt or underskirt that has tiers, often I measure the distance from each tier from the waist down, make the markings on the pattern and transfer to the fabric.
This time I had to start my way up.

With the skirt sewn, hem marked, I work my way up. Marked and attached the first 4 tiers [from the hem up] to the foundation.
Took the skirt, place it on the ironing donkey, marked the right side and stared working my way around the upper part. It took me some time to make the tiers look even from side to side.
First I try measuring, [making each tier a bit shorter than the last] and it did not work. I realized it was best to just eye balling it. So there I was pinning, looking, pinning, taking the skirt of the donkey and looking at it as it hangs, then … you get the idea!
Finally I was happy with it and when she came for the fitting it looked just fine.

The skirt was bagged hem using horsehair between the hem allowance and the foundation.
The hem was hand sewn to the foundation.

BALANCING ACT [BLACK EVENING DRESS]

I had stop, or better yet slowed down working on the Beaded wedding dress to make a dress for a new client. The Lady had being calling for a while and could not make up her mind. Finally she called to make an appointment.
The dress needed to be done in two weeks [do day March 16] she is going to a wedding.

The fabrics are; lace and silk gazar from Rex Fabrics . Thank God, the lace is not beaded.

After taking the measurements and doing the first fitting on muslin, I realized that I would have to make each side separate. The left side of her body is sunk in
[That’s the best way I could describe it].




After cutting each piece individually, cutting the left side higher at the hip seam and making the bodice of the dress, I had to interline, fill in the bust on the left side with Batting.



The dress haves a seam just above the hips, this seam is cut on an angle not on a straight line to compensate for the unbalance on her body. The left side is 1” shorter.

Looking at the dress on a hanger or flat on a table, you could notice the differents, but when she has it on, it looks just fine.




The dress basted waitting for a fitting [note: the dress is big for the mannequin]





I kept my self busy while waiting for fittings, [or just need some time to relax] working on the beading for the wedding dress. Here is a pic of the front panel in process.


I want to finish this dress ASAP; another lady came yesterday and, again, wants a dress in a rush. This dress is not a ball gown, just a cocktail strapless dress, and she is a smaller size, not like the one I’m working on. It should not be too much work [the fittings and clients wanting to change things is what take the most time].





As you could see the beading on the wedding dress would have to wait a while.