BARRIENTOS

AUTUMN BRIDE

2011-10-15T06:42:00.000-07:00

It has being a yearsince my last post. What a year it has being! One I can’t wait to leave behind.Like many people, this economy has dragged me down and all my time was takentrying to keep up.

I have not madea single thing all this time, although I try to make something for myself tokeep my mind away, but it did not happen [why is it so hard to make somethingfor yourself when you are a guy?] Never the less, the greatest give to “man” isit time… this too should pass.

One of mycousins is getting married this month, and of course I’m making her dress…

I’m posting somepics of her last fitting and other of the dress before the fitting. Later Iwill post detail pics of the process.

Front photo of the bride trying the dress. The dress has a scooped neckline, dropped waistline with cap sleeves. The bodice of the dress is made of emprodery tull with sequens, beads and flowers

The lower part of the dress is made of Silk Satin Organza, with appliques of the bodice fabric on the top. Vertical ruffles in differnts lenghts all over the skirt

Back look of the dress in the mannequin

Front look of the dress

you could see on this pic that side seams had not being closed. The seams will be sewn after last fitting

The wedding is in two weeks, I'd post more pics after the wedding

PHOTO SHOOT

2010-10-18T15:48:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was a very great day. Finally I found a team that wanted to take pics of my dresses. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have, keep your fingers crossed, maybe a magazine will published them!!

I want to thank;

Iryna Storozkuk -Model

Simon Soong - Photographer

Aimee Ortega -Makeup Artist

Kaaren Alise -Hairdreer

MAKING A CHANEL SUIT INTERFACING

2010-10-13T04:06:00.000-07:00

The next step, before quilting the lining to the jacket fabric, is interfacing the neck and front opening. Taking the time to look at the development of the Chanel suit, I could see she wanted to bring the comfort and hang of the first jackets she made out of Jersey. A cardigan “feel and hang” is what she was after. Keeping this in mind, I cut the interfacing on the bias for the front and a bias stripe for the back neckline.

For the back neck interfacing I cut a 1 ¾” bias canvas stripe. I cut it longer than the neckline. I then pin it to the muslin pattern, staring at the center back, curving it, and pressing it about 1” at the time. With the bias stripe all pined and pressed into place,

the next step is steam it for a permanent shape. Using a wool pressing cloth wet it/spray just enough to press the one section at the time.

After I was satisfy with the shape with the steam, and the stripe was dry, it was put aside to rest/settle and dry some more.

While the back neck interfacing was resting, it was time to padstitched the front opening of the jacket.

To prepare the interfacing for the padstitching, it was pinned in place, steam press. The padstitch was done very loose to preserve the hang.

Front padstitched interfacing.

During this time the back interfacing had air dry and it is ready to be worked on the back jacket neckline.

the next step will be quilting the lining.

MAKING A CHANEL SUIT TRIM

2010-10-12T11:13:00.000-07:00

Close up look at the trim

on this pics you'd see the 8 strands of yarn being braided. Notice the strands coupled and used as one.

After the braid is made, it would be framed with 2 strips of the selvage, the following pics show how it would look

Happy sewing,

MAKING A CHANEL SUIT

2010-10-11T10:48:00.000-07:00

I’m making a Chanel Suit for a special client. The jacket is base bodice is cut out using BOF Full Size jacket from the August, 2008 magazine. The sleeves are cut using Claire B. Shaeffer Vogue pattern # 8259.

For the skirt I used Ann Klein Vogue pattern # 2834. This is a pleated skirt which it is perfect for the client, since she has narrow hips. The pleats on the pattern face towards the center front, but they will be change to face outwards.

The suit has a hat made of the same fabric as the suit. We want to give the “Gabriel” Chanel look. Although Chanel’s suits (Gabriel) that we see her wore were mostly white with black trim, we went with a boucle similar to the one use for Chanel Spring 2009 RTW collection. It is almost exactly, but I’m sure it is not.

Changes were made on the pattern, looking closely to Gabriel jackets, I could see the armhole is higher on both the armpit and the shoulder, given greater movement to the arm without the “pull” we have when the armhole’s are larger. Needless to say there would be no shoulder pads on the jacket.

After all fitting/changes were made on the muslin, I cut the fabric with 2” seam allowances on side seams, princes seams, 1 ½” to armhole, neckline and 3” for the hem.

All edges were overlock to keep the cut lines. Then the basting was done. I’m doing the quilting on a horizontal at 1 ½” “lines” with a distance of 2”

One of the Chanel details is the trims used for the jackets. I wanted to be as “true” to the Chanel Jacket as I could, so instead of purchasing or using an already made trim, I made my own. I experimented with the yarns to get the right “look” for the suit.

On this photo you’d see the first two trim I braided, I thought the all white trim will be nice, but it just did not, then I braided black and white together, although I like the way it looks it was just not write for the fabric, it just blend right in with the fabric.

Both of these trims were braided with 6 strands of yarn. I thought if I use 12 it would do. No they are too heavy. I have to say I do like the white wide braid with the white and black smaller braid on top; I might use this for address some day.

The final pic shows the way I’m going with the trim. I used 8 strands of yarn, 4 black, one furry black, one white, and the last white with small pompom balls. The black furry was worked as one with one of the black strands, so was the white pompom’s with a white strand.

MAKING THE PINK DRESS

2010-08-18T02:43:00.000-07:00

I had a few things to share with you on this post, some good news, some about troublesome patterns. Let’s talk about the pattern first;

As you probably had notice, I use commercial patterns as base for most of my work. I used to make my own patterns, but having such a great selection, why spend the time making it? I take a commercial pattern, and altarate to what I want, it is easier and faster…till now!

I used BOF 12/08 _107 as the base for the charmuese and lace dress. I had decided to use the 103 of the same months for my next dress. Of course, it was just going to be a base to which I would add my own twist.

I traced the garment front bodice and the front skirt, cut it on a diagonal to add fullness to both, front bodice and skirt, for a drape.
To try out my pattern, I cut a piace of poly charmuese I had [the dress will be made on silk charmuese] The drape look great, I was really happy with it, so I move alone to cut the other parts of the bodice to check fit, dart placement etc. I don’t normally worry about

dart placements , but there was something about the this pattern, specially the front bodice lining, where the darts are, that just did not look right

I cut, both back and front on muslin, sew them together and place it on the mannequin. The fun began! First, although I had added it ¾” for seam allowance, across the bust line I need it an extra 1”. The back has, on the same area [cross shoulder blades], an extra 2” ???? The back was not much of an issue, having princess seams I could take care of it easy, now the front was not as easy. I thought, ok I just add that extra 1” at the bust and all will be fine, now I had to mention I did increase the dart at waist line, the fullness below the bust was also exaggerated.

So there I was with the new muslin for the front bodice with the extra 1” thinking this would be it. So I thought! The darts were too low, to skimpy I had to re-work them, lower the side seam dart placement, add curve to the waist dart and make them even deeper that I had already.

This change the inter front, I most have done it 4 times till finally I got it right. I’ll tell you, it would had being faster if I had make the pattern. This is not a good pattern form BOF, and to think I have to make, yet another dress like this one…but about that in a bit. In the mean time here are some pics the dress coming alone

I had mentioned previous posts some things I was working on. Last summer I got a contact on one of the Spanish TV channels here in Miami. The idea was for me to show them my work and see what we could collaborate. With the changes that happen last year for me, I had to put it aside.

Now with some new dresses, I got in touch with them and after several attends to meet up, I had the opportunity to meet up with them. The wardrobe department’s director loved my work and wants to use some of my dresses on an upcoming “Novela” Soup Opera. It is not a done deal, but things are moving on good direction, I think!

So needless to say, I had being busy making other dresses to bring to her. She did give me the measurements for both main actress [the reason why I making the PINK dress in two sizes, my sample size and one of the actress].

I have also [finally] hook up with some photographers here in South Florida that would like to use my designs on some of their shoots [More Dresses to make, thank God I do have fabrics!] As you could see this year things are looking better [Thank God].

Now, the last news! I need it [yet another] sewing books like a need a hole in my head but, I could not help it and get this McCall’s Vintage book… I mean, really how many sewing books do you see with a man taking a hem? Yeah I know Kenneth D. King have several books and he is on the cover of the last one, but a Vintage book from a commercial pattern company?

I saw the cover of the book a while back on the net and when I saw it on Ebay, for $0.99 I HAD to have it! By looking at it I could tell it is well written, the pics are great, I will take a chance to read it and would let you know what I think of it.

Keep on sewing, and enjoy the rest of the summer.

SILK CHIFFON PRINT

2010-07-29T05:00:00.000-07:00

The second printed dress is finished. The bias corded tubes weave took a bit of time, it really was a bit of a pain, but it was done. The technique was the same as the MAKING A VALENTION , this time I made the bias tubes are smaller and filled it with yarn.

I used Silk Chiffon, silk organza and Silk charmeuse [for the tubing]
I’m still in the mood of “LIGHT, SOFT, TRANSPARENT”. I used the organza to line and underling the dress. The underline skirt is 2” shorter, the lining is 2” shorter than the underline.

A close up look of the bias corded tubing weave, this took a bit longer than I expected.

Rolled zig-zag hem on all three layers of skirt

WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

2010-07-28T12:57:00.000-07:00

While finishing one of the dreses [I will post pics later] I was thinking about what do to next and remember a sample dress I stared making back in NY when I had the “salon” and never finished [I should take the time one day to tell you what happen with B&B couture]. The dress is almost done but some details [like the big flower I made and lost in one the moving or God knows where] taking the hem and doing the train.

The sample was a bridal gown with beaded lace and light pink silk taffeta [I was way ahead with this design; remember the pink wedding dresses for breast cancer awareness? I was making the dress in the early 90’s]

I thought on taking some of it apart and remake the design. The color goes well with the garden group [which I need to get done like yesterday, but more of that late], But… I’m not sure about it and I need your help here. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

First the workmanship on the dress; there is separate corset very “a la Haute Couture” with extra support given by an elastic cover with china silk to keep the corset close to the body and support the bust, the zipper is sewn by hand as well at the understitch on apron, if I could call it that.

The over skirt or apron is cut on the bias and line, the dress under is underline on silk organza with china silk lining.

The corset was made out of china silk. These are two separate pieces attach at the strap-line.

The corset was sewn to the style line as a facing would. You could see the dress and corset are separte pieces, the dress is complitely lined.

Large Loops sewn to the center seam to hold elastic cord.

Smaller loops on each of the seams

Eyes sewn to the back of corset

Hooks sewn by hand.

Edgestitch sewn by hand on the overskirt [so small it is hard to see]

I was thinking on taking off the apron and changing the bottom part of the dress, but taking a closer look at the garment I see the biggest issue STAINS !! all over the dress. They look like rust, but I’m not sure. I’d tell you I’m luck this is the only one of my samples from NY that has rust stains, sure the silk satins have change the color a bit, and to be honest they look nice, the color is Champaign now. But this one has stains all over the place making it hard to work with it.

The debate is, should I leave as it is, maybe finish it or should I leave it alone.

Any ideas?

PRINT CHARMEUSE EVENIG DRESS

2010-07-12T10:15:00.000-07:00

The dress is finished. Thank God!! I did not think I will be done with the dress. I was designing the dress as I was sewing it, and keep changing my mind about the ruffles [which are made out of silk chiffon of the same print], did I want one, two or three? How wide did I want them? I settle on two ruffles, the first is 4” wide the other 6”. I did made them smaller, but did not like the proportion on the dress, so had to take it apart and start all over again, part of the design process.

After it was done, I did not like the way it looks, something was missing. I want the lace to be beaded, took a piece of the lace that was left, try few bead work till I got the right “feel” [keeping the light, soft and transparency of the dress]

The fact that my mind was on another design did not help moving alone faster with the dress, I already working on that, will keep you posted.

LIGHT, SOFT, TRANSPARENT!!

2010-07-04T18:29:00.000-07:00

One of the dresses is almost done, but before it is, I’m posting some pics for you to see the corset before it is cover with the lace.

The empire dress has the upper part made of silk organza [where the lace will be sewn], I made a corset [for support, with the boning] also in organza [I wanted the corset to be light, airy and transparent]
All to give me the lightness and, [yes!] sexiness I’m looking for on the dress.

on this pics you could see the foundation [corset] made of organza.

The foundation with boning

Pining the lace in place

The lace will be cut, overlap and sewn by hand to form the darts.

BROWN VELVET AND LACE

2010-06-30T06:43:00.000-07:00

While taking a break from making patterns, I stared looking at some of the pics of my dresses and came about this dress. I’ll tell you, I love this dress, have to make it again someday.

I made the dress for a client that was going to a wedding. The dress is made out of velvet, lace and netting with horsehair.

What I love, about it [apart from the design itself] is the closing technique I use for it. The back was made out of lace, being a see through back; a zipper was out of the question [in mine opinion]

I did not want a zipper to show through the lace on the side, zipper would not be the best choice for the dress.

The opening on the dress is on the left side, it has a 7”zipper up to the begging of the lace. For the upper part of the dress and the shoulder I used snaps for the inside [for added security and support] and velvet cover buttons with loops.

The buttons and loops gave it a nice look [my opinion].

Enjoy the pics, I think they speak for themselves. And, yes the dress is a bit bigger than the mannequin!
Back to the cutting table, have patterns to finish

GARDEN PARTY

2010-06-21T16:41:00.000-07:00

I have two passions in life, books and silks! When I was in NYC I had a large collection of fashion books, some I have keep after I move to Miami, others I sold or gave to the library. It broke my heart parting with them, but I just could not bring them.

One of the books I’m glad I keep with me is “The Opulent Era” by Elizabeth Ann Coleman. The book is a rare look at the early haute couture houses in Paris. It gives the reader an inside of the houses of Worth, Doucet and Pingat. I love the dress on the cover, it is an evening dress from the House of Worth [1902] designed by Jean-Philippe Worth. I love this dress and always wanted to design something base on it. The dress is so feminine, light and airy so unlike the other dresses from the era.

The opportunity to do something inspire by the dress is finally here, I found a print with the feel of the dress. It is on Charmeuse and Chiffon, I got them both, just have to have them. I will be using also one color Charmeuse in both the pink and the violet.

The fabrics had arrived today and I’m very pleased to see the print is just perfect. I will be making several dresses out of these fabrics, but I’m still not made up my mind about trims, or technique I’d uses. I’d let the fabrics talk to me. In the mean time, here are some pics of fabrics and a lace, I might or may not use, I hope you love them as much as I do!

YOU PLAN, AND GOD DECIDES!!

2010-06-08T17:45:00.000-07:00

It’s going to be a year since my last post on the blog, I can believe it! I’ll tell you, it sure feels movies imitates life, specially my own. I had referred to Forrest Gump a few times in the past, and if you saw the movie you know how his life took him to so many different experiences. Well I feel that way sometimes!

At the end of last summer, my business was slow and I was “going’’ in a different direction; opening my store online and networking here in Miami, when I got a call from one of my clients, muse and dear friend Anastasya. She was working at a company doing loan [mortgage] modification and an opening was coming up and she gave my name.

Well, needless to say, that’s what I had being doing all this time. What kind I say, “a boy got it do what a boy got to do” I had bills to pay, and money to save.

Now, this is where the “God Decides” comes about. There I met two ladies that were also in fashion on one form or another. Jennifer makes beautiful jewelry out of semi-precious stones weaved on macramé. Her work is just amazing.

Jen and I have kept in touch although she left the company at the beginning of the year. She has being working on her jewelry, making more of them and evolving her style. The “free” time has allowed her to follow through with some connections and acquiring new ones. Through her, I got connected to some people, and we have something “on the back burner” [more to come, stay tone]

At this time I’m getting myself ready to jump back on the design “wave” [I forgot, I no longer work at that company, the company is no longer on operation, the loan modification business is almost dead… but that is a different story].

So, my dear friends and colleagues, I’m waiting on my order of beautiful printed silk chiffon, Charmeuse; and “delish” silks to get busy. I promise I’d be sharing the designs with you as I move alone.

I want to take a moment to thank my dear friends, Paco and his Sister Isabel we have being in contact all this time, their love, support and encouragement has no price.
Thank you Paco for the magazines!!

I’l be Back!!

BLACK WAVE COCKTAIL DRESS

2009-08-02T17:46:00.000-07:00

I name this dress “Black Wave” after I saw the pics. I took them out side, facing the bay, and with the wind, the flounces could not stay still. The skirt was dancing with the wind, having a grand o’ time. I thought on waiting till the wind came down, but I wanted the morning light, so there was not other chose, other than wait till another day.

I made the skirt of the dress in Satin Silk soft organza, the body of the skirt was underline with silk organza for support and to carry all the markings needed for the skirt.

Lace, black and brown silk organza were use for the bodice, nude china silk to underline.

Velvet ribbon was used for the waist band and straps.

On the next pics I’m showing some of the process of making the dress,
After I did the skirt, it was a matter of finding out, what look I wanted for the bodice. I try doing something a bit different and not so predictable. There were some printed fabrics on my stash, so I went to play with them and see what it would come out of it.

As you see on this pic I liked the stripe fabric with the lace over it, the problem was the fabric is a poly. Although it was a good look, modern and fun, I just was not comfortable mixing fibers on this dress.

Back to square one! The dress will be as I originally though of it, bodice over a nude look.

Most often I use three layers of fabrics to create a nude color when I’m using lace.
Depending on the intensity of the lining color, I’d use a brown organza and, like in this case a black over the brown.

As you see on the pics, just the brown organza over the nude lining did not give me enough dept, the black organza over the brown did.

hand sewing the lace over the bodice.

Traditional hem with lace ribbon

I use paper bags for ironing over seams, using this technique you prevent seam imprints on the fabric. [I use a lot of kitchen tools with my ironing, will post about it some time soon]

Here you’d see how I closed the back of the skirt. The pattern has a flounce that overlaps the center back seam. Using baby snaps on the flounce and the waist seam to close the back. The bow also has a snap to hold it in place.

With the center back closed you can’t see the center back seam,

JUNGLE COLLECTION PRINT BLOUSES

2009-07-04T20:00:00.000-07:00

Blouse made out of Poly Georgette; this is a peasant style blouse easy to wear. The neckline and cuff are sewn with elastic thread on the bobbin, making it easy to fit and slip over the head.

Charmeuse top cutout on the bias with invisible zipper on the left side for easy fit.

Low rise poly crepe pants, the pants might be part of a suit

JUNGLE COLLECTION "IVORY" DRESS

2009-06-23T14:43:00.000-07:00

This dress is part of the collection I called “The Jungle”. It is made out of Poly crepe with bias charmeuse piping. The piping was cut from a leopard print that would be use in other piece on the collection. This is the same print, but on poly georgette, used for the blouse and dress shown on the last post. I still have to finish some details on the georgette dress; I’d be posting that with other pieces.

Design detail;

facing cut from printed fabric.

NEW DIRECTION

2009-06-17T04:56:00.000-07:00

I’m back on the game, this time I’m doing things different. Looking at my stash, and making some patterns I stared working on a small collection that I will list on my ETSY store. Paco commented later last week, ETSY is a great site for selling hand made creations.

I had known about ETSY for quite some time, a good friend from my F.I.T. days [she has a jewelry store on the site] had introduce me to it, but never had the time to list my designs. Busy doing custom made, I never had finish a collection to list on the site.

The last experience was a reminder to follow with plans I had on the back burner for a while. ETSY was one of those plans.
I have some pieces that were stared but the whole group never got completed. As you could imagine, after the inspiration is gone, you never get it back, so I’m working on implementing new ideas with what I already had made.

Also, through friends here in Miami, I got some contacts from one local TV channel, I need to create some [very] “Miami” designs to send to them. Will this work out? I don’t know, we will see, [but it surely brings some new energy and challenges]. In order for something of this nature to work out you have to really “pimp” yourself, which it is not easy when you are doing everything.

Keeping that in mind, I’m getting seamstress’s contacts numbers from a local industrial sewing machine dealer. As Mary Beth had mention, I need to get some good seamstresses, this way I will have time to “sale myself”.
So with new energy, and cleared mind, I went to my ETSY shop, duster it up, took out the “spider webs” and posted some of my old Wedding dresses samples.
I still need to get acquaintance with the site, but boy, you really need to be careful when you do anything on the net. Do you believe, just few hours after posting the dresses, I got what Etsy calls a “convo” [CONVERSATION] I read the “convo” and read it again… hu hu! It look like a scam, like they say, if it looks like a scam, talk like… I’m can not said it was, but I try to “convo” and the account was closed, hum!! This person wanted to buy out of the site, she gave her email address and wanted me to send PERSAL INFO so she could send a check. She would have her SHIPPING COMP get the dress. It did not sound “legit’’ to me. So WARNING! Be ware of the scams they are every where.

Looking at the site I came across Leanne’s store, I had seeing the store many times but never notice it was her's. It is nice seeing one of PROJECT RUNWAY'S winner on the site.

I would like to acknowledge the comments made. The worlds and sentiment posted were of great help to me and I hope to others who might read that post some time in the future.

With gratitude, thanks;

Gorgeous Things
Paco
Ann
Els
Mary Beth
Summerset
Joannely
Kates
The Sewing Loft

LOVELY BLOG AWARD

2009-06-08T10:47:00.000-07:00

Did I say “Life is just like a box of chocolate…” After posting I realized I was awarded the “lovely Blog Award” by Josie….Wow, thank you! It really made me smile, thank you Jose, I’m glad you enjoy my blog.

Rules:
1) Accept the award; post it on your blog together with the name of the person who had granted the award, and his or her blog link.
2) Pass the award on to 5 blogs that you’ve newly discovered. Remember to contact the bloggers to let then know thy have been chosen for this award.

Here are my Five: [some are not newly discovered]

Bunny

Couture Pioneer

Ann Fashion Studio

Cindy Ann

Summerset

BEIGE IRIDESCENT SILK OUTFIT III

2009-06-08T10:41:00.001-07:00

“Life is just like a box of chocolate…” I should change the name of this post to “La Novela”…really, I need to laugh about it, and I’m past the point of being mad so there is nothing left but to laugh.

After trying to please the client and making all the changes, I realized that it was an impossible task [yes, there were more changes she wanted]. I had to end the processes, it was taking too long and as it was, I was loosing all around.

In conclusion, I made the decision of not charging, even suggested returning the deposit. I know, that is not the “norm”, but in this case, I just need it the matter resolved and move on.

She was gracious not to accept the deposit, and offer to “pay something” for my time… That was not acceptable to me, I rather her having it as a “gift”. I was not about to undercharge for my service.

So here I am, taking it all in and trying to see what road to take next. I had being re-thinking the “made to order” business for a while now. Clients either don’t know or just don’t care what it takes to have something made; the time, care and patience need it. Some one that makes clothing, either for themselves or others knows all the work that it takes. Some start sewing their own clothes to have better made items or a better fit. At times, you could “knockoff” an expensive out-fit for much less, but if you factor the time you had put into it, how much would it be? What would you charge?

I could make a suit for myself and would pay only for the materials used, but what about the time it had taken me to make it?

These are things that most clients don’t understand. Ready to wear clothing, even the most expensive, would be done faster and more cost effective. Think about all the special sewing machines that would do just some specific task, button holes, seam bidding, overlocks just for knits that would clean finish and sew at the same time, hemming… the list would go on and on.

All this, had to be done by hand when you do “Made to order” or just some thing for you.

To be honest, I this time I’m not sure what road to take. Yes I know I had had some great experiences in the past with most clients, but this are few and far in between.

Maybe I have some samples all ready made so clients could choose the one they like, they could see it, touch it maybe try on…

Maybe, I’d open a cyber store…

Maybe, maybe…
Some thing would come up.

I know I have said a lot, PLEASE!!, what do you think?

BEIGE IRIDESCENT SILK OUTFIT II

2009-06-03T15:49:00.000-07:00

Here is a pic of the over blouse finished. On my last post, the blouse was almost done, and was waiting for “Mrs. K” to fit the pattern of the under blouse. The fitting went well, so I thought! After getting home, “Mrs. K” decided she was not happy, and wanted some changes.

The next day, she came with two other ladies. The under blouse was discarded, shoulder pads taken out and lapels carried all the way to the hem of the blouse.

I’d tell you, at times, I just want to throw the tower… but that’s just a “moment”

BEIGE IRIDESCENT SILK OUTFIT

2009-05-31T06:08:00.000-07:00

I wanted to post some pics of this project before it was finish. The outfit is; pants, over and under blouses [ The under-blouse was an addition after the second fitting, and it is not cut out just yet.]

The entire outfit was centralized on the Lace. Complementing the lace with the other fabrics was a "most", making it quite a challenge [finding the right hue of beige was not an easy task, the lace gives a grayish hue, and the color is a Khaki beige].

Both blouses are made out of Silk Iridescent Chiffon and Silk Charmuse. The charmuse was used to underline the iridescent chiffon; it was also used for the Collar, Cuffs and Lapels.

Silk Iridescent Chiffon,

Iridescent Chiffon and Charmuse

Lace Over Charmuse

The Collar, Lapels and Cuffs are made in the Silk Charmuse [You could see some of the basting still at the collar, I use silk thread and beading kneedle for basting Silks]

The seams at hem and facing were finished with a Hong Kong

On this pic you could see one of those details I like using on my made to order.
It is a “bib” or “flap” that it’s sewn on the harm hole right under the arm. It protects the garment from sweat or marks left by antiperspirants. I also use it on the crotch of pants to prevent wear and tearing of the fabric when the inner thighs meet.

Pants Hem with lace border free from underlining.

Pants underlining hem

Grosgrain at waistline

Inside pants, showing the silk chiffon lining

COCKTAIL BLACK CHIFFON DRESS

2009-05-15T08:34:00.000-07:00

Cocktail dress made in Silk chiffon with stole attached.

Bodice is draped and hand sewn in place with cascade drape at center front. The stole is attached to cascade, making the drape fall into the skirt giving it a wrap around look.

Both stole and dress where hemmed with a zigzaged roll hem.

I used a roll hemmed attachement for the zigzag machine.

BLACK SILK CHIFFON EVENING GOWN

2009-05-07T14:33:00.000-07:00

The idea for the dress came about one day as I was playing with some beaded sleeves I had. I inverted the sleeve using the hem as a neckline and draped the rest of the sleeve over the mannequin upper body.

I love the look and that’s how the designing process stared for this dress.

It is strapless, long and I wanted it to flow, so chiffon was the fabric of choise. Chiffon is perfect for this dress, it flows and it would be easy to work with for ruching. Maybe because of the last dress I might still be hooked on ruching, so why not go all the way with it?

Make a dress "a la Desses”, “ Valentino” [no surprise there!!].

After the sketch was made, it was a matter of planning the dress:

Strapless bodice with center front dart
Full silk chiffon skirt with extension to cover both CF and CBs

The skirt would be underline with a gray georgette [the beading has gray sequins]

And of course, the lining and boning and all that good stuff

The next step was draping the center front panel follow by making the top of the dress, but that would be the next post.

APRIL IS GONE

2009-05-05T14:50:00.000-07:00

April is gone, I’m glad. After my last project I took a few days to relax and put things in order. The sewing area was a mess after the rush of the last two dresses.

I took advantage did some spring cleaning. It was the beginning of spring after all. The birds were singing all day, and one of my orchids bloomed, the flowers still going strong.

The month stared sort of normal, not much went on for the first two weeks. It was so, I even forgot my Birth-day, I did not notice in till later that day.

As the second week went on and in the middle of the third, I got a phone call from my cousin who is living in Mexico City. He had being calling all day, but I could not get me till late that evening. He called to tell me my aunt was in the hospital, she had had a heart attack.

My aunt had gone to Virginia to spend some time with her daughter and grant-son, whose birth-day is also in April. As the family was getting ready to leave the house to go to the location where birth day party was to be, Aunt Hilda felt ill and lost consciousness.

She was taken to the hospital in Virginia, where the doctor notice she had had a heart attack. Immediately she was transfer to another hospital in Washington DC. She was three days in intensive care and hospitalized for a week.

Good thing she was with her daughter and not at her home, where she lives alone … she would not have made it.

As you could imagine fromt Saturday night [the day of the event] till Thursday it were crazy for us, phone calls to and from Mexico [where her son is living], Virginia, NYC and Puerto Rico.

As up today, she is doing great, thank God. She still in Virginia staying with other relatives during the week and going to her daughters on the weekend.
She will be going back to New York next week, after mother’s day.

I’m waiting to see how things develop to take a trip up North to spend some time with her. I know she would like that, and so would I.

In the mean time I got a wonderful gift from my dear friend Michel, who is living in Paris. He sent me some books I had being wanting for some time.

An embroidery course books from “La Mason Lesage”.

If I remember correctly I had asked him [Michel; when he and I lived in New York] to find out if “Lesage” had any books on one of his trips back home, and if they do to get me for me. At the time “La Mason Lesage” had no books for sale to the public but now they do.

“The Broderie de Luneville”

Before I end this post, I want to thank every one for the comments made on my last post, I’m glad you like “the rushed dress”.

I’m telling you, I hate doing rushed orders, but I’m glad I took that one.

I talked to “Mrs. H” [she is the client for whom I mad the last dress] a week after the wedding she attended I’m happy to say she was very please with the dress and brought one of her friends to get a dress made.

I’m working a dress that is “do” by the 15th of this month. I’d be posting pics of it soon.

I also want to thank Mary-Beth for the great blogs she emailed me; I’d be adding them to my list as soon as things get a bit more settle.

I know I’m going on and on, but indulge me a bit more, I haven’t post in a while. And that takes me to the last item; I want to apologize for not commenting on the great post that had being posted on some of blogs I follow. I had taken a pick here and there, put as you could imagine my attention was taken someplace else [calls and more calls from Family issues].

Well that’s all for this post. Thank you !!

BLACK SILK DOUBLE GEORGETTE DRESS

2009-03-26T18:33:00.000-07:00

The last rushed order was finally done on Thursday. I was glad it was gone and be able to take some time. It really had been an interesting month. Thank goodness, I have a few days, to get my energy back, get things organized and be ready for the next rush. I tell you I can’t wait to get back to the beaded wedding dress. It surly is relaxing doing all that beading!

The Cocktail dress with stole was made out of Silk Double Georgette and Silk Chiffon. I used the double georgette for the skirt and stole. The Chiffon was use for the ruching on the upper port of the dress.

Hopefully, next week I will continue with the beading, unless something else comes along.

BALANCING ACT II [BLACK EVENING DRESS]

2009-03-17T09:57:00.000-07:00

The dress is done and waiting to be pick up. I wish it would fit one of the mannequins, and take pics.

The bodice is made of Alencon lace lined with silk gazar, Rex Fabrics . It was underlined and fused interlined at the armholes, as well as padding to compensate for the difference from side to side. Shoulder pads were use as well. On the left side there is a 1” thick shoulder pad, and the right side a ½” thick.

Shoulder line, upper hip seam as well as some of the tiers, when hand on a hanger, would look slanted, the left side appearing shorter than the right side. I mention earlier, when she has the dress on, it all looks even.
The skirt is made out 8 tiers cut on the bias and lined with silk organza, also on the bias. The tiers are sewn to a foundation made out of Taffeta.

Sewing the tiers was a real challenge, each tier should be 4 ½” long [ the part that actually is seen]. The skirt being an inch shorter on the left side, I had to play around with the upper tiers to get the optical illusion of being equal on both sides. This took me some time.

When making a skirt or underskirt that has tiers, often I measure the distance from each tier from the waist down, make the markings on the pattern and transfer to the fabric.
This time I had to start my way up.

With the skirt sewn, hem marked, I work my way up. Marked and attached the first 4 tiers [from the hem up] to the foundation.
Took the skirt, place it on the ironing donkey, marked the right side and stared working my way around the upper part. It took me some time to make the tiers look even from side to side.
First I try measuring, [making each tier a bit shorter than the last] and it did not work. I realized it was best to just eye balling it. So there I was pinning, looking, pinning, taking the skirt of the donkey and looking at it as it hangs, then … you get the idea!
Finally I was happy with it and when she came for the fitting it looked just fine.

The skirt was bagged hem using horsehair between the hem allowance and the foundation.
The hem was hand sewn to the foundation.

BALANCING ACT [BLACK EVENING DRESS]

2009-03-11T06:41:00.001-07:00

I had stop, or better yet slowed down working on the Beaded wedding dress to make a dress for a new client. The Lady had being calling for a while and could not make up her mind. Finally she called to make an appointment.
The dress needed to be done in two weeks [do day March 16] she is going to a wedding.

The fabrics are; lace and silk gazar from Rex Fabrics . Thank God, the lace is not beaded.

After taking the measurements and doing the first fitting on muslin, I realized that I would have to make each side separate. The left side of her body is sunk in
[That’s the best way I could describe it].

After cutting each piece individually, cutting the left side higher at the hip seam and making the bodice of the dress, I had to interline, fill in the bust on the left side with Batting.

The dress haves a seam just above the hips, this seam is cut on an angle not on a straight line to compensate for the unbalance on her body. The left side is 1” shorter.

Looking at the dress on a hanger or flat on a table, you could notice the differents, but when she has it on, it looks just fine.

The dress basted waitting for a fitting [note: the dress is big for the mannequin]

I kept my self busy while waiting for fittings, [or just need some time to relax] working on the beading for the wedding dress. Here is a pic of the front panel in process.

I want to finish this dress ASAP; another lady came yesterday and, again, wants a dress in a rush. This dress is not a ball gown, just a cocktail strapless dress, and she is a smaller size, not like the one I’m working on. It should not be too much work [the fittings and clients wanting to change things is what take the most time].

As you could see the beading on the wedding dress would have to wait a while.

BEADED WEDDING DRESS III

2009-02-24T15:10:00.000-08:00

Just a quick post, it might be a while when I can work on this project. I just got a rush order for a dress, this will take me away from this project for a while.

I had done the inderlining . It is made out of netting and horsehair at the hem with some more up the skirt. The dress taking the shape I had in mind.

The dress will be made with of the following layers:

1. Fashion fabric: Beaded Silk Organza
2. Unterlining: Illusion Tulle [this is to soften the look of all the netting supporting the dress]
3. Inderlining: Netting, with horsehair
4. Lining: Lining fabric; skirt, with netting ruffles, bodice, two layers both cut on lining and interfacing. I use a light interfacing for the layer that would be facing the body, a heavier one for the outer layer.
5. Boning: will be on sewn on the inner facing of the bodice.

Here is a pic of the inderlining with the lining, I have not sew the upper part just yet, this would be sew with the other two layers [organza and tulle].

Pic shows the pattern with beading design draw on it.

BEADED WEDDING DRESS II

2009-02-23T08:04:00.000-08:00

I’m done sewing the netting to the skirt lining, Thank God! I thought I was doing to drown on netting and horsehair!

After sewing the two ruffles the pattern calls for, it was not enough fullnesss. Back to the cutting table it was, good thing I have a lot of netting and horsehair.

I cut another ruffle, making a total of 52yds of both, netting and horsehair.

I like using the horsehair to hem netting, not only does it makes the netting stiff at the hem making it move way from the body giving it movement, and protecting the legs. Try hemming a long full dress the next time you make one and notice the different when you move on the dress.

It would be a good idea to use it also on long beaded dresse with a train, the horsehair would keep the train from getting in between the legs [Remember Ms. America on Miss Universe contest, 07 and 08!!! They both folded down when the train got caught on there heels]

Horsehair comes in different widths. The most popular comes are 3”, 2 ½” and 2”.

I used 3” for this dress.

You could see this hemming on the garment as well. I had seeing Silk chiffon dresses hemmed with a ¼” that was on Carolina Herrera dress.

John Galliano, is using this technique for the Dior Haute Couture dresses.
Here are some samples [I got these pics from the Oscar site]

Changing the subject, did you see the dress that Miley Cyrus wore for the red carpet? It is a Zuhair Murad.

I saw the dress on the Couture Fashion show [fashion Channel, yeah I wish I was there in person] When I saw the fashion show I knew I had seeing that dress before. Last night after getting a better view of the dress, I was sure I had seeing it.

It was one of the dresses made by Christian Dior for his collection in 1949.

That goes to show, even Haute Couturiers get inspire by each other!

The next, is making the Toilet, doing some style changes, marking the placement of the beading, and transferring everything to the fabric.

BEADED WEDDING DRESS

2009-02-18T15:47:00.000-08:00

Finally, after going back and forth with different designs, I came up with one that I like. Originally I was planning on making the dress on silk Duchesse satin. I was not pleased with the designs that I would come up with, and the Beading [the beading being the inspiration].
The sketch shows what FINALLY came up with. The dress would be made on Silk organza.
The organza will have an allover beading getting smaller as it goes down on the dress.

The pattern for the dress would be base on Vogue pattern # 2717 . The pattern was changed. The Vogue dress is less full at the hem; I want my dress to be bigger. I had to make some alterations on the pattern as well; I found the center front piece to be too big, with out shape. I use the foundation pattern and cut the lining skirt out of the lining patterns [these are the same as the Vogue dress pattern, but shorter]

Here is a pic of the bodice foundation on the mannequin with the lining skirt pin to it. You could see even on the skirt how much more fabric there is on the front piece.

I still have to sew the boning on the foundation and the netting to the lining skirt. I had hemmed the skirt… note that I had hem it with ½” horsehair.

I like doing the hem this way to keep the skirt away from the body, the legs in particular.

You’d see more of this as I go along.

FABRIC STORES IN MIAMI

2009-02-17T12:29:00.000-08:00

I had promised Paco , I would give some info about the stores in Miami. He had asked me after the “Valentino” dress was done about the fabric.
It did take me a while to get info about where get “goods” and “findings”. Coming from NYC, where EVERYTHING is in the Garment Center, I was looking for an area like it here in South Florida. Miami has a “Garment Center”, but it is were you would go to buy wholesale clothing and shoes, it is not a place where you would find things that you would need if you are making close yourself or have a business. I did find a place there were some items can be bought; Pattern paper, threats, sewing machine foot (industrial machines). But that was it.

ISA COUTURE
200 N.E. 30TH ST.
MIAMI, FL. 33137
305 573-3033
The first store I came to know was ISA COUTURE’S . Isa migrated from Cuba in the early 60’s. The story is that she stared selling remnants from her car, going home to home. I see thing went very well for her, she has half a block with two buildings. The biggest is where you’d find Silks, Laces and woolens.

Silk prints and solids are on the first floor by the entrance, you’d also see some beaded fabrics that are display through out the store, also some notions.

On the second floor you could find the Beaded fabrics and lace collection, this is the evening fabric area. At the other side of the second floor you’d fine all kinds of wools, including a large Boucle collection, Brocades etc. Still yet another large room with Men’s suiting fabrics.

Isa’s Couture , being the first luxury fabric store that I found in Miami, is that one that I had make use the most here is a list of the fabrics:

Cavalli Silk Charmeuse Printed Panel

This dress was made for party that was held in Israel. I use 5 panels to make this dress. I wanted the print to run through out the dress. It took me a bit of time to plan the cutting of the bodice; I wanted the dark part and less busy part of the print to be at the waist, given the illusion of a smaller waist line. Notice how the pearls run down from her upper part of the bodice, down the midriff into the skirt. It looks easy, but this is not an even print.

I don’t have her ok to post the clients face, thats why I cut it off the pic.

This is an Ungaro Silk Print Georgette. This dress went to Russia, and she was very happy with it, she told me every one asked about it ... She was happy to give me the ok to post her pic,but asked to make sure she looked good...

Another Cavalli, this is a "Just Cavalli" fabric. It is Silk Printed Georgette.

Here is one of my "Sexy" designs. The client order this dress for her son's first birthday party.
I found out there is a Russian tradition where the first birthday party is a grant event. And it was, I was there, I Had a blast, danced, eat … no much drinking, I was driving.

REX FABRICS

823 S.W. 37TH AVE.

MIAMI, FL. 33135

305 448-0028
My other favorite store is Rex Fabrics
Rex Fabrics
Rex has the latest Haute Couture fabrics from Paris. If you are looking to make an Haute Couture gown form Valentino, Elie Saab, or Armani Prive... you need to come to Rex.

I could not take pics, Ricky the owner, is not in town [maybe he is in Paris getting the latest fabrics] and I need is ok to do so. Neve the less here are some pic from some of the things I had work on. Not good pic I took then before I had the blog. I try to take pics of my work, in case there is a problem later on, I have as reference.

Versace pink double silk charmeuse, beaded lace

Valentino Haute Courte fall 2007

This is a pic of the Valentino Green beaded fabric as I was working on the dress.

The dress finished.

P & S STORE INC. '' LA CASA DE LAS VIEJAS"

39 N.E. 1ST. STREET

MIAMI, FL. 33132

305 3713840
I like doing my shopping early, that way I get it out of the way and don’t have to deal with all the commotion that happens at some stores. With that bit of info out of the way... I’d tell you about P&S notions, or as it is call here “La casa de las viejas” (the old Ladies home). This is a store that I make sure I’m early on it. Fist you have the parking problem, this store is in down town Miami were parking is a nightmare [ I was there today early this morning to get pics, but no luck finding parking, I didn’t think I would have a problem thinking I was there early]
The other reason for me to make sure I’m early at the store, it gets busy.

This is a great store to get Buttons, beads, pearls rhinestones, and now they carry some fabrics as well

Next time you come to Miami, give yourself some time to go to some of these stores.

BEADING SAMPLE II

2009-02-13T17:11:00.000-08:00

The beading sample for the Wedding dress is almost done. I’m satisfied with the beading; but not with the bias strips, I don’t think I like them as much. I might play with it a bit more to see if I will use them at all.

Here is a pic of the appliqué petal on the flower.
To make the appliqué petals, after they were embroidered the petals were glue on the back to give them body. After the glue had dried, the petals were cut out and the edge sewn to a very fine wire.

The petals were appliquéd on top of the already beaded flower. This gave me the 3-dimensional “Feel” that I was looking for. I’m very glad to see how it came out.

After seeing the beading and knowing that I’m satisfied with it, I think I will go ahead and start working on the dress.

BEADING

2009-02-12T03:25:00.000-08:00

Embroidery, specially beaded work had always fascinated it me. My early memories of it are from the gowns and costumes that were paraded on carnivals and Patriot’s Saints feasts. I still have some pictures of some of those dresses, from the time I was part of the Saint Joseph feast. I was dress as a sultan, that year the theme as the Middle-east.

I never formally took classes on beading or embroidery, but it was easy for me to pick it up once I found, or my mother found someone that new now to do it.

My mother found a lady that taught “Telar” beading or “Tambour Beading”. I saw her do it a couple of times, and realized that it was just like crocheting but with a fabric in between.
I was familiar with crocheting, my mother was an expert. [I still have some of her work]. She would crochet a table cloth in a night; she was fast… really fast.

Being familiar with the chain stitch [crochet] I knew it would be easy for me to get the hand of tambour beading, just need it the tambour needle, and practice.

Here are some pics of one of my early designs. I’m lucky I still have it; I was still practicing and playing with different beads and sequins.

I took a pic of the back, to give you an idea of how it looks. When you are working on a frame with tambour embroidery, most of the work is done on the wrong side of the fabric; this makes it and ideal method for working on velvets and other fabrics with a difficult surface

This is a beaded work done for sample dress I made in NYC. The dress was part of the “Empire dress” collection; the ribbon was beaded, not in velvet as the E.D. It was made out of silk organza with the “white on white” beaded work and the bow were in the front, not the back as on the Empire Dress.

The Bow knot

Testing the design and bead

the Empire dress

Details of beaded bodice

Today it is easier for anyone with a computer and the internet to learn or get ideas of how Tambour beading is done.

On my research I found these videos and blog that show in details how the tambour embroidery is done.

embroideryaddict
This is a great blog. Virginie shows lots a beautiful work and how to’s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-R70JQPbGc

This video shows the needle’s movement.

“La Maison Lesage” in Paris…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQbXu_rtBVQ

BEADING SAMPLE

2009-02-11T15:18:00.000-08:00

After few weeks of resting, I stared working on a beaded sample that I might use for a wedding dress.
I knew I wanted to use all white and clear bead, sequins and purls. The idea was a white on white embroidery.

After some research [on the net and some of my embroidery design collection] I came up with this sketch.

I trace the sketch to silk organza, got my frame out and went to work.

While making the sampler I realized I did not like the design. It was not giving me the “feeling” I was looking for… back to the drawing table I went. When I was happy with the drawing, I took it over to the frame and with a dressmaker pencil I traced it over the old design.

Here is a pic of the work in progress on the frame.

The little petals that are free standing on the side are going to be cut-out and appliqué over some of the flowers.

This pic shows the embroidery almost done, I like the way it is coming out.

So far I have used;
Sequins- white and iridescent white size 2mm
Bugle beads-white and iridescent white size 2
Seed beads- white
Purls-white
Rhinestones- Square sew on Crystal Swarovski

2009-01-30T05:55:00.000-08:00

This month stared with great expectations and lots of hope, the fact that the nation has turn a new page in its history; a turn, that not only will change what we think about ourselves as a nation, but also how the rest of the world would look at us.
As we all know, now we have a new president, the first african-american man sitting on the oval office. Needless to say, there were lots of celebrations, parties and get together. Take all the parties, some cold weather [the temperature went down to 33 here in Miami] and what do you get? A COLD!!
I don’t get sick with colds that often after I moved to Miami; I have not had one in 3 yrs. But boy, when I get them I get them!!! I was in bed, for a week, my back is killing me, I’m tier of drinking soup; I made pancakes on Monday night, [comfort food??] Finally, I’m coming out of it.

THANK GOD!!

While all this was happening I had two great gifts; first on the 20th of January [Inauguration Day] right on cue one of my orchids had bloom for the first time. I had forgotten what color it was, and to be honest I was worry it would never bloom. To my surprise, it was a beautiful Golden yellow.

The next great event was finding out I was nominated by Cindy and Christina
for a Kreativ Blogger award.

Thank you both for such an honor, and liking my blog.

PLANS FOR THE NEW YEAR

2009-01-09T15:08:00.000-08:00

I hope every one had great Holiday season. I wish I had gone to NY this year and spend some time with my Family and Friends, but in the other hand I’m glad I was in Miami where it was warmer…
Thank you all for the comments on the Valentino Dress. I much appreciated.

Going forward, I had some things that I would like do work on, so here it is my year plan [lets see how much I get to do].

Since I had some time to kill, I thought on making some dresses using some design details I found on the net.

1. I saw this very nice weave make out of bias tubes [yes I’m still fascinated by them]
I love this detail as soon as I saw it, it is simple, just a lot of hand work, and you could see I like hand workmanship.

I want to make it into a wedding dress, having had so much silk duchess satin, I don’t see why not. I do need to make some new samples, why not doing something that I like.

2. There is another dress that I would like to work on, I would like to make in Black silk georgette and chiffon… I wanted for this dress to have an evening coat, but I realized I don’t have the black Duchess Satin that I was planning on. Then it took second place.

Also, it is about time I also make something for me. Have not made me a thing in years, it so easy not to, specially leaving in a semi-tropical weather, just jeans and a T, once in a while a Jacket and you are done. But I need to make me some things.

I started with these two Burda Patterns. I will post as I progress with them:

The shirt; this I will be making about 5 on different fabrics I had already put aside to make . I do love this cut.

The suit is nice also, it comes with a long jacket [Which I prefer, but I’m making the shorter first, the fabric would be best on a shorter jacket]

And thinking about Fun, I have to star working on my Halloween custom, as any one in the USA knows, Halloween is not just for kids anymore. There are the Parades, fests parties all over. I do get into the Halo’s eves spirit once in a while, and this year or better yet last year I wanted to dress as the ‘”Let them eat cake” Queen; Marie Antoinette.

Last year I did not had the time do make it, I was really busy and I thought the summer was going to be slow, but it was not!
So I better get star it with this, I want to make it as authentic as I can make it, and it is not an easy costume to make, lots of pieces to make, thank God I have most of the fabrics.

Lets see how much I get to do.... is all good.

Making a Valentino Finished

2008-12-23T17:13:00.000-08:00

Well the dress is finished. I’m please the way it came out, although there are some things I would make different next time.

Oh, yeah!! As I was working on it I thought “this would make a beautiful wedding dress”. Of course it would be a more sophisticated dress; I already start it working on it, just have to make sure I have plenty of the silk 4 ply crape. Will see! Like I said in the past posts I’m not busy at this time, so is time to play lololol

Here are the pics of the dress I hope you enjoy!

Final note; like I said I’m please with the dress and plan to make it again, but, is it just me? …. I can't help the feeling after I finished a project that the “Love is gone”… does any one else feels the same?

FELIZ NAVIDAD!!!

Making a Valentino "Final Details"

2008-12-22T18:46:00.000-08:00

After the break, I decided to do the ruffle at the waist. Luckily I had some fabric left [remember I ‘m using some pieces from my stash] to cut some bias band to make it.
I cut some wide enough to make it double to have the ruffle have a soft feel to it. Using the ruffle foot, I gather some of it to the waist size, and then I sewed it to the bottom seam of the bodice, before joining the skirt.

Now, with both bodice and skirt joined, it was time to sew the zipper. Using a traditional zipper in beige [flesh tone] I sewed it using the prickstitch, changing the color of the thread as I was sewing the different fabrics; i.e. green for the charmeuse, beige for the organza.

In addition to the prickstitch, I slip stitch under each bias tube making sure not to catch then with the thread.

I totally forgot about the little bow I made, I think it would give a final touch to the zipper.

Blue Dress

2008-12-22T10:23:00.000-08:00

I would like to take this time to give thanks all of you that have left some comments on the "Making a Valentino" project.

I also wish all a happy and safe Holidays. A New Year fill with much joy and prosperity.

I took a brake from the “VALENTINO” dress. Looking at the pics I notice a little ruffle on the seam that joins the Bodice and the skirt together, I was not sure about it. I look and look at the pic to have a clearer idea of what it really was, not sure, I decided to leave it aside and do something else.

Well, I thought, let me try a Burda World of Fashion pattern. I had a Cotton Twill that would be great for the dress feature on the April 2008 magazine.

Here is my version of the 101 dress.

I like this pattern a lot; it is my first time using the BWOF patterns, so far so good. The dress is size 34, (size 2 American size).
I still have to make the strings for the closure. The twill is too heavy for it; I will need to find a piece of fabric that would complement the blue twill to make them.

Making a Valentino "Almost Done"

2008-12-18T16:01:00.000-08:00

With the top part of the bodice done, it was time to sew the yoke. I cut two yoke pieces out of organza; a top, where the bias tubes would be sewn, and a bottom piece which would be use as a lining.

Joining the bodice with the yoke took a little planning; I wanted the joining seam to have the same clean finish as the sleeves.

I sewed a piece of the bias tubes right side out, leaving the seam allowance free [I use the fold on the inside while it was being sewn, this way I could make sure the tube would measurement would be the accurate]. This seam allowance would be hidden with the bias tube itself when folded over.

The two yokes were then sandwiched between the bodice, lining and the bias strip from BACK ‘S DART to BACK ‘S DART. From CENTER BACK TO DART, I left lining as well as bottom yoke free. This two would be joining later; leaving this part free for lining the zipper [I have done this finish on wedding dresses when a crinoline is sewn to it].

Leaving the seam allowance showing at the right side of the garment trim some off, the bias trim is then folded up and tailors baste.

With bottom yoke piece hanging free, I was read to pin and baste the bias tubes in place.

With all the tubes basted, and hand sewn [slip stitch] to the bodice, I placed both the bodice and the skirt [the skirt was piece together previously] on the mannequin to take a look.

So far, I like the way is coming out.

Making a Valentino "Test"

2008-12-14T07:25:00.000-08:00

With the design lines changed on muslin and transferred to the pattern … is time to “test” it. I used a left over silk charmeuse for this.

Sewing the pattern with a similar fabric, helps testing the fit as well as any construction techniques.

Taking a closer look at the pic, it is apparent that the body of the sleeves was made on silk organza, [look at the closer pic of the dress], the bust dart was change to make 3 smaller darts

I cut and sew the sleeves body, use bias strips to clean finish both the top and bottom of sleeves. The other bias strips were basted in place.

The bodice was cut in green charmeuse, sleeves and bodice were pin, put on the mannequin to see and make any corrections if need it.

The white organza is not the right one for this. I need something in a flesh tone. I dipped a piece in tea to see if that would work [an old trick use to dye lace and silks]. The tea was too light; I dipped another piece in coffee. I was please with the color, so I went ahead and dye the fabric.

Here is a pic of the bodice on the mannequin. The sleeves and lining are sewn. I baste the lining a fashion fabric together.

Now it is ready to be sewn to the lower part of the bodice

Making A Valentino

2008-12-11T12:43:00.000-08:00

I find myself with some free time, so I’m getting busy doing some work for my pleaser. I start it making a knockoff of a dress from Valentino’s Haute couture Spring 2008.

I figure, why not, I have the time and some silks, let’s do it.

Not wanting to spend time making a pattern [like I had done in the past, till I got wiser], I took a similar commercial pattern. The closes to the dress was B5277, made a copy of it on patternmaking paper, trace to muslin,

left some extra fabric by the neckline [I see the Valentino’s dress is had a higher neck line than the one on the pattern] and pin it on the mannequin.

With muslin on the dress form, and looking at the pic of the “V” dress, I drew the new lines on the neckline and sleeves. I also make the midriff yoke

Changes made on first muslin, I trace this changes to a new one, cut the upper part of the dress to fine done the sleeves and make sure neckline pleasing to me. Not sure if you could see, but I notice, the sleeves need to come down move at the top. I use some left piping [from the blouse I’m, making] as guide to where the bias ribbons would be place, this is need also to make the right length of the sleeve.

After going this far, I start it thinking what fabric I will use for this dress, I have some yards of printed silk charmeuse, I just don’t know witch, I’m favoring the yellow green one over the blue and green roses.

Let’s see how it goes…….

2008-12-09T10:35:00.000-08:00

Butterfly Blouse

I had made this blouse in September for a, she liked it so, that went and got more fabrics to get 2 more made.

The first one [I wish I had taken a pic of it] was made on silk burnout chiffon in light pink, purple and beige.

The one I’m making now is a brown, dark green, gold and maroon Ombre [the colors don’t show that well on pics, sorry] poly chiffon. It has an imprint [jacquard, I will not call it so, since it is not all over]

I use tissue paper under the fabric to cut it. Cutting chiffon [and all slippery fabric] this way makes it a lot easier to control it and not have it run all over the place. I fond a roll of tissue paper at my local supplier that I use for projects where I’m using light slippery fabrics, especially silks. I tell you having a full roll of paper is a great help, if you can find one get it.

On this pic you see the lining fabric on top of tissue paper.

I had to play with the layout of the pattern some what, on this pic you could see how I over lap the pattern pieces for the under blouse [lining].

Here, it is easy to see the lay out of the top pattern, fabric and tissue paper. I placed the top [blouse] pattern on the cross grain of the fabric. The blouse been a “T” shape with out seams at the sleeves, I needed the width, and it was no problem with the fabric.

All pieces cut, I start sewing the lining. First I sew the armhole; I used the ¼” roller hem foot for a clean finish at the armhole. Because this is not such a close curve, I could use the roller with no problem.

[Wow, you could really see how old is my machine on this pic, but I love this machine, is it an OLD industrial SINGLE. My supplier thinks it is one of the first industrial machines made I bought it in NYC and I think is with me for 20yrs or more . At the moment I have 3 industrial machines; 2 straight stitch, (had 3 but sold one this summer) an overlock {Willcox & Gibbs, also old}. I also have 2 home sewing machines for the zig-zag.]

You could see on these pics, how well this looks when it is pressed. I had to admit that it does work better on silk. The first blouse had silk georgette as lining. The finish with the roll hem

looked great, again, whish I had taken a pic of it.

I did not use the roll hem foot on the blouse, I wanted to have a better control when making the hem on the sleeves.

The blouse has a V neck line; I had used corded piping to clean the neck line. I made the piping with baby’s yarn [it is softer and smaller than the cording for piping]. The first blouse, since it was light beige, the white yarn was perfect for it, it did not show through the sheer fabric. Thinking about this I made small piece to see if the white would work with the dark fabric. After I saw it did not I use black yarn [Thank God, I play with crochet and knitting once in a while].

I sewed the piping to the lining first, and then sew the lining to the blouse, the piping overlap at the center front, right at the point.

This pic shows how it looks when is done [the pic does not shows how small it really is, the piping is about 1/8”]

Finally it is almost done, I had basted it and left it ready for a fitting.

Going Back in Time

2008-12-01T06:51:00.000-08:00

I hope you enjoy these pics. I had being taking pics of dresses that I still have from my NYC years.

The Roman Empire Dress

The fist one was a dress I made while Studying at F.I.T. in NYC.
The dress was for a project base on drapes and soft fabrics. I use silk georgette and guipure lace.

The lace was beaded with white and iridescent sequins and beagle beads. I was inspired by the Roman Empire and its drape ropes. I wanted the lace to give a nude illusion, and the skirt wrapped, draped and weaves through the lace.

The weave would wrape over the shoulder ending with a fold. The dress had a ditachable train of the same georgette that would be attache under the fold of the fabric at the back.

This dress was great success when I open my business in NY; I made several versions of it. One was a dress for an engagement party made in Mint green. That version was strapless with the drape going over the shoulder.

Another was made in light peach with short sleeves. The sleeves were the traditional Filipino’s sleeves.

The Empire Dress

I love going to second hand stores and looking what's there. There is always a piece; a dress, suit, fabric or workmanship that always inspires me. New York had [in my opinion] the best second hand stores. I don't remember how many dress I got from the Salvation Army's store in Manhattan. One of these dresses was a short black silk taffeta empire dress. The dress had a 60’s feel to it. The bodice had the empire cut with velvet ribbon that went around ending on a bow at the center front, with scale ruffles covering the entire bodice and sleeves.
I made 2 patterns from this dress. One was for a dress in white silk organza. The bodice was made with the scale ruffles. The Empire line was covered with a hand beaded trim [I made this trim on silk organza with silver, white and iridescent beads].

This is the other design that I made from the black taffeta dress. The dress is made from white silk duchess satin, with white velvet ribbon [the bow is on the back].

I made the bodice out of silk organza that I had beaded in white, iridescent beads with clear, white and silver sea beads. I use pink thread for the clear sea beads to give some color to the flowers.

I really love this dress; it really was, for me, a labor of love!!!

Red, Valentino, the last master of Haute Couture

2008-11-24T20:13:00.000-08:00

Valentino, the last master of Haute Couture!!

Valentino is a master of elegance and opulence. The Italian designer made his mark creating luxurious gowns with intricate detailing and tastefully body-conscious silhouettes.

The fabrics tend to be both delicate and rich—laces, chiffons, and silk crepe, along with wool, leather, and suede

Valentino has long been popular among European royalty, American socialites, and celebrities.

While his new creations get a great deal of attention—and requests, especially around red-carpet time—many also collect his vintage dresses.

45 years of style at the museum of Ara Pacis (Rome), July 6th October 28th 2007

Here are some pics from the booklet of the exhibit of Valentino's body of work in Rome. The Ara Pacis Museum(whose name means "Altar of Peace" is definitely the most fitting place in which to stage such an exhibit.

Black tulle dress. Underdress embroidered in floral motif with black and silver sequins, fully overlaid with black silk tulle featuring embroidered branches in black jet and bouillonne flowers in black silk and black jet pistils. Two folds on the left lend added movement. The low back is secure with a jeweled pin. *

Evening gown design as a tribute to the Commedia dell'Arte: Burlesque line, sweetheart neckline, draped basket weave bodice in chiffon in shades of purple, sea green, turquoise and yellow; textured crinoline skirt in the same colors as the bodice with giant diamonds marked out with inlaid black tulle. *

*Pics and text from "Valentino a Roma" (45 years of style at the Museum of Ara Pacis..)

Pics taken at the "Ara Pacis" exhibition;

On rare occasions we get the opportunity to see some of the "couture magic" being made. Here are some pics from Valentino's atelier where seamstress are working on some peaces for the couture collection.

On this pic you could see the details and construction of a jacket from Spring 2008 Couture Collection.

Seamstresses working on evening gowns (Spring 2008 Couture)

When Valentino retired the world lost the last master of haute couture!!

Au revoir maître de conception de mode !!!

New beginning

2008-11-21T15:43:00.000-08:00

Finally after time contemplating creating a Blog, here I am.

I will be posting some of my work some time soon.
Till then I’d share with you some of my favorites Couturiers.

Even thought most admire Chanel and Dior [is not that I don’t like then, I do but…] from the old couture houses my favorite are;

Balenciaga

This Basque Designer opened his first atelier and boutique when just twenty years old in San Sebastian, Spain and was acclaimed leading Spanish designer in the early 30’s

Under the label EISA, the Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs

The Spanish civil war forced him to close his stores [Madrid and Barcelona] and moved to Paris in 1937 to start up anew.

Balenciaga opened his couture house in Paris in 1937. His early shows featured heavily designs influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.

He enjoyed success from the beginning, however not until the post-world war II years that the full scale of the inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. His lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by “The New Look”.

The unmistakable style [increasingly pure and abstract form] is still a source of inspiration for many modern designers.
I think of Balenciaga as the Grand-father of the MOD. Most, if not all the designers that helped create the MOD fashion, worked at one time or another at the House of Balenciaga in Paris; [Andre’ Courreges;{apprentice 1950},Givenchy (protégé 1957), Emanuel Ungaro (cutter 1960).

Jean Desses

Desses was born in Alexandria Egypt in 1914. He opened his Paris couture salon in 1937. Influenced by his travels created draped evening gowns in chiffon, embroidery dresses and sheath dresses

His fashion was very popular with European royalty and movie stars. In 1962, he designed the wedding gown worn by Princess Sophia of Greece (Now Queen Sofia of Spain) for her marriage to King Juan Carlos of Spain

Guy Laroche and Valentino were Desse’s assistants in 1950.

His vintage gowns could be seen once again the red carpets, bringing re-new recognition to this master of drapery and rushing.