SILK CHIFFON PRINT

The second printed dress is finished. The bias corded tubes weave took a bit of time, it really was a bit of a pain, but it was done. The technique was the same as the MAKING A VALENTION , this time I made the bias tubes are smaller and filled it with yarn.

I used Silk Chiffon, silk organza and Silk charmeuse [for the tubing]
I’m still in the mood of “LIGHT, SOFT, TRANSPARENT”. I used the organza to line and underling the dress. The underline skirt is 2” shorter, the lining is 2” shorter than the underline.

A close up look of the bias corded tubing weave, this took a bit longer than I expected.

Rolled zig-zag hem on all three layers of skirt

WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

While finishing one of the dreses [I will post pics later] I was thinking about what do to next and remember a sample dress I stared making back in NY when I had the “salon” and never finished [I should take the time one day to tell you what happen with B&B couture]. The dress is almost done but some details [like the big flower I made and lost in one the moving or God knows where] taking the hem and doing the train.

The sample was a bridal gown with beaded lace and light pink silk taffeta [I was way ahead with this design; remember the pink wedding dresses for breast cancer awareness? I was making the dress in the early 90’s]

I thought on taking some of it apart and remake the design. The color goes well with the garden group [which I need to get done like yesterday, but more of that late], But… I’m not sure about it and I need your help here. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

First the workmanship on the dress; there is separate corset very “a la Haute Couture” with extra support given by an elastic cover with china silk to keep the corset close to the body and support the bust, the zipper is sewn by hand as well at the understitch on apron, if I could call it that.



The over skirt or apron is cut on the bias and line, the dress under is underline on silk organza with china silk lining.

The corset was made out of china silk. These are two separate pieces attach at the strap-line.

The corset was sewn to the style line as a facing would. You could see the dress and corset are separte pieces, the dress is complitely lined.

Large Loops sewn to the center seam to hold elastic cord.

Smaller loops on each of the seams

Eyes sewn to the back of corset

Hooks sewn by hand.

Edgestitch sewn by hand on the overskirt [so small it is hard to see]

I was thinking on taking off the apron and changing the bottom part of the dress, but taking a closer look at the garment I see the biggest issue STAINS !! all over the dress. They look like rust, but I’m not sure. I’d tell you I’m luck this is the only one of my samples from NY that has rust stains, sure the silk satins have change the color a bit, and to be honest they look nice, the color is Champaign now. But this one has stains all over the place making it hard to work with it.

The debate is, should I leave as it is, maybe finish it or should I leave it alone.

Any ideas?

PRINT CHARMEUSE EVENIG DRESS

The dress is finished. Thank God!! I did not think I will be done with the dress. I was designing the dress as I was sewing it, and keep changing my mind about the ruffles [which are made out of silk chiffon of the same print], did I want one, two or three? How wide did I want them? I settle on two ruffles, the first is 4” wide the other 6”. I did made them smaller, but did not like the proportion on the dress, so had to take it apart and start all over again, part of the design process.

After it was done, I did not like the way it looks, something was missing. I want the lace to be beaded, took a piece of the lace that was left, try few bead work till I got the right “feel” [keeping the light, soft and transparency of the dress]

The fact that my mind was on another design did not help moving alone faster with the dress, I already working on that, will keep you posted.

LIGHT, SOFT, TRANSPARENT!!

One of the dresses is almost done, but before it is, I’m posting some pics for you to see the corset before it is cover with the lace.

The empire dress has the upper part made of silk organza [where the lace will be sewn], I made a corset [for support, with the boning] also in organza [I wanted the corset to be light, airy and transparent]
All to give me the lightness and, [yes!] sexiness I’m looking for on the dress.

on this pics you could see the foundation [corset] made of organza.

The foundation with boning

Pining the lace in place

The lace will be cut, overlap and sewn by hand to form the darts.