MAKING A CHANEL SUIT INTERFACING

The next step, before quilting the lining to the jacket fabric, is interfacing the neck and front opening. Taking the time to look at the development of the Chanel suit, I could see she wanted to bring the comfort and hang of the first jackets she made out of Jersey. A cardigan “feel and hang” is what she was after. Keeping this in mind, I cut the interfacing on the bias for the front and a bias stripe for the back neckline.

For the back neck interfacing I cut a 1 ¾” bias canvas stripe. I cut it longer than the neckline. I then pin it to the muslin pattern, staring at the center back, curving it, and pressing it about 1” at the time. With the bias stripe all pined and pressed into place,

the next step is steam it for a permanent shape. Using a wool pressing cloth wet it/spray just enough to press the one section at the time.

After I was satisfy with the shape with the steam, and the stripe was dry, it was put aside to rest/settle and dry some more.

While the back neck interfacing was resting, it was time to padstitched the front opening of the jacket.

To prepare the interfacing for the padstitching, it was pinned in place, steam press. The padstitch was done very loose to preserve the hang.

Front padstitched interfacing.

During this time the back interfacing had air dry and it is ready to be worked on the back jacket neckline.

the next step will be quilting the lining.