Making a Valentino "Almost Done"

With the top part of the bodice done, it was time to sew the yoke. I cut two yoke pieces out of organza; a top, where the bias tubes would be sewn, and a bottom piece which would be use as a lining.

Joining the bodice with the yoke took a little planning; I wanted the joining seam to have the same clean finish as the sleeves.

I sewed a piece of the bias tubes right side out, leaving the seam allowance free [I use the fold on the inside while it was being sewn, this way I could make sure the tube would measurement would be the accurate]. This seam allowance would be hidden with the bias tube itself when folded over.

The two yokes were then sandwiched between the bodice, lining and the bias strip from BACK ‘S DART to BACK ‘S DART. From CENTER BACK TO DART, I left lining as well as bottom yoke free. This two would be joining later; leaving this part free for lining the zipper [I have done this finish on wedding dresses when a crinoline is sewn to it].

Leaving the seam allowance showing at the right side of the garment trim some off, the bias trim is then folded up and tailors baste.

With bottom yoke piece hanging free, I was read to pin and baste the bias tubes in place.

With all the tubes basted, and hand sewn [slip stitch] to the bodice, I placed both the bodice and the skirt [the skirt was piece together previously] on the mannequin to take a look.

So far, I like the way is coming out.